At the historic port city of Southampton, the River Test joins with other watercourses in a wide and windswept estuary, big enough to make cruise liners and container ships look tiddly. But its upper reaches are in stark contrast.
My whole body is drenched in sweat as I reach the western hillside of Teluk Gurita on the coast of Timor Island. Fortunately, the hills are well shaded with trees, so I take shelter after the challenging climb. In front of me, the narrow bay with its green water looks seductively tranquil.