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At the first flush of dawn, the air rising up the slopes of 720m-high Mt Mogan carries a heady fragrance of bamboo and tea. The soft contours of the Tianmu Mountains extend towards the horizon in a misty sea of green and blue, while the occasional thwack of a bamboo cutter plying his tools reverberates around the surrounding slopes. Two hours from the glass and steel towers of Shanghai and there isn’t a single building in sight.
There’s a cultural revolution in the narrative power of food. It’s all about the story, and even Michelin-star chefs are succumbing to the tales of taste, to kitchen myths and the heritage of home cooking. In Indonesia, cultural traditions and cuisine go hand in hand, and the more powerful the fable, the better the flavour.